Thursday, September 26, 2013

19th September 2013

We had a very simple day today, as we travelled to Nagasaki via Shinkansen, which took about 4 or so hours all up including a train swap at Hakata.

Our train to Nagasaki had been booked to leave Hiroshima at 12.30pm. Our hotel at Hiroshima, Sheraton, had check out at 12 (Yay! Late check out!) so we went down to the train station for breakfast as they had a good coffee/bun place located on the outside of the building. Much cheaper than Sheraton's breakfast, I think all up it was about 800Y.

Then we walked to the tram station on the other side of the train station, discovering an underground passage that halved our walking time (previously we had been going the whole way around).

From the tram stop we travelled out to the A-Bomb dome memorial. It was very sad to see and when we got to the childrens memorial I may have found it difficult to suppress my feelings. We left pretty fast and in complete silence.




After this we returned to our hotel, madly threw dirty clothes and clean clothes alike into our suitcases and walked the short distance to our magic carpet ride. I mean Shinkansen ride. They're pretty awesome and I wish Australia had them, even if it would cripple our domestic flight industry. 

We arrived in Nagasaki late in the afternoon, at some time close to 5pm and immediately harassed our hotel staff for directions to the nearest Laundromat, as Hugh is good at making sure his clothes get good and dirty. Had a pretty easy night and went to bed early, to toss and turn in the incredible heat of a hotel with poor air conditioning.



Saturday, September 21, 2013

21st September, 2013

Our second full day in Nagasaki. We had a pretty relaxed day. In the morning we took a tram up to the atomic bomb museum. It cost just 200¥ to enter the museum, and filled in a few hours of our time. We barely spoke a word to each other as we wandered through.

After that, we went for a walk up around the hills of Nagasaki.

 More stories of the A-bombs were scattered around in various places as we wandered.

We found half of a Torii gate standing in a residential area. When the A-Bomb fell, this half of the Torii gate remained.


A little after the Torii gate, a bit further across the hill, we came across a peace park. Inside the trunk of a large tree, was the burnt shell of another tree, another product of the A-bomb.



The razed land of Nagasaki after the A-bomb.

For dinner, we decided to take the cable car up Mt. Inasa. The cable car was very touristy, with long lines, and cost 700¥ per person for a one way trip, and a 5 minute ride. The cable car was hot and overcrowded to the point where we could not enjoy any views as we made our ascent. The views of Nagasaki were good. We ate at the restaurant, with seats overlooking the view. 

View of Nagasaki from Mt. Inasa
Because we hated the cable car so much, we decided not to use our pre-bought ticket back down, and instead walked through some forest (in the dark) partway down the mountain. We managed to find a bus that ran the rest of the way down, and into town to the train station. The bus was actually very fun - it went down the mountain, around tight corners, at a somewhat frightening speed. 

Friday, September 20, 2013

20th September, 2013

Happy Birthday to me! There's no better way to spend a birthday than exploring a new place.

We started off our day by  doing a short walk down to the dock area of Nagasaki. I'm not a big fan of boats - I get motion sick very easily - but generally, every time I do swallow back that sick feeling and brave one, it leads to good things.



Last night we booked a tour out to Gunkanjima (also known as Hashima...or that island from Skyfall) - something we knew we wanted to do, but waited to book until as close to the time as possible, so that we could look up weather predictions. Landing on the island is only possible about 100 days a year because of rough seas, so we were very lucky.


Gunkanjima - or battleship island (called so because of its shape) - is an abandoned island about 40 minutes from Nagasaki. Gunkanjima was established as an undersea coal mining island in 1887. Those who worked on the island lived on the island and it reached a peak population of about 5000 people in 1959, before it closed in 1974 when the coal depleted. After this, the island was abandoned for 30 years. 

We did our tour through Gunkanjima Concierge, which cost 3900Y, as they had the only english website that we could find. The tour was done in Japanese, but staff could speak English and they gave English information in a binder to us. 

I found the history of the island fascinating, and loved the abandoned island. We really wanted to explore more, but that was against the rules. And unfortunately they make you wear the list of rules  around your neck at all times. Just so you don't forget.










After taking in a bit of abandoned Island we had a quieter afternoon, before going out to dinner.

For dessert, Hugh bought me the cutest birthday cake from a bakery near to our hotel. It was as delicious as it was cute.


18th September, 2013

How do I even describe today? Apart from amazing, it was, well....amazing. I think possibly my favorite day so far hands down. The only downside to today was that I wouldn't get to do it again tomorrow. 

Originally we weren't going to make a stop in Hiroshima, we were just going to go straight through to Nagasaki. But oh gosh am I glad we did decide to do a stop in Hiroshima and allow ourselves 1 full day there.

We decided to use that 1 day to take a trip out to Miyajima, an Island near Hiroshima. Our handy JR rail passes got us from Hiroshima to Miyajima Ferry terminal no hassles in less than half an hour. We then discovered that JR own the Miyajima ferry service, so we got across to Miyajima completely free (well not really free when you consider that we paid upfront for the pass beforehand). But even if you don't have a JR rail pass the ferry is only something like 170Y each way (about $1.80AUD), so it won't break the bank.

(The view of the bay from midway up Mt. Misen)

Miyajima is home to Mt. Misen, a large Torii shrine sitting out in the bay, numerous temples, an aquarium, beautiful scenery, souvenir shops and lots of friendly domestic deer (one of which tried to chew my insulin pump tubing).

(Bambi pretty much tried to nom my insulin)

To get the full experience of Miyajima I think you really need 2 full days to explore - 1 day just around the base of Miyajima and 1 day to hike & explore Mt. Misen including the shrines & observatory on the top. Regretfully although we did hike a small part of Mt. Misen we didn't have enough time to make it to the top, which we really wanted to do. If we had thought about it fully we would have taken the cable car to the top (it is a bit expensive) and only hiked down, but we started the hike on another route and didn't realise until afterwards.

The Torii shrine is one of the biggest attractions of Miyajima. It stands at 16m high and is supported to stand upright in the bay bed by its own weight. Luckily we arrived as the tide was going out and visited it progressively over the day, getting closer and closer until eventually we could reach it and touch it. You could make a wish and push coins into the structure once you got up close.

(Torii gate still under water, and you can just see me standing next to the closest pole to the camera once the water had rewcessed and we could make our way fully out to the gate)

The hike we did was beautiful. We went via the Daishon temple, which had funny Buddha's in skull caps all through it.
(I LOVED these guys. Who makes hats for statues?)

We only managed to get 1/5 of the way up Mt. Misen as I developed exercise induced asthma and couldn't breathe well enough to continue climbing. The entire climb was stairs straight up (I really do recommend taking the ropeway up & doing the walk down as its so beautiful but I couldn't enjoy it whilst puffing so much.

(Some of the views along our hike)


After the climb we decided to cool down with some ice-cream, but a deer beat us to it. The food on Miyajima is more expensive but that was to be expected, and is still quite reasonable compared to Australian standards of tourist-frequented places. Hugh tried some weird fish on sticks which was flavored in chicken. He took 1 bite and went to throw it out. The only problem was that the ONLY public bins at Miyajima are located at the JR ferry terminal. I would very much advise to bring a plastic bag for all your rubbish to take with you (as if it is thrown onto the ground the deer will attempt to eat it because they don;t understand plastic is not edible.

The souvenir shops deserved a bit of a walk through as they did have some different, Miyajima-centric items. I bought another fridge magnet to add to my collection. Its a bit of a travel tradition for me to document my travels with magnets at home.

Next time we come to Japan, this place is on the top of my list!

(Ringing a bell for a wish. Which also cost money. Wishes cost money, alot of money, no wonder they never got granted when I was a kid, I never paid anyone when I made them!)

(The Torii gate through a small statue in Miyajima)


(Found this little guy at one of the temples. So Kawaii!!!)




 





Wednesday, September 18, 2013

16th & 17th September 2013

16th September 2013

Today we basically didn't do much during the day. We woke up late again and headed out to Osaka's castle gardens. There was some sort of show by the name of 'Eigth Wonder' playing so the place was teeming with pre-teens/teens. The garden itself was beautiful. It was so relaxing, I wish I had brung my kindle to just sit there and read.

We decided to go to the Minami Entertainment District for dinner. When we asked the train information desk lady for directions she hid a curt smile behind her hand. When we got to Minami we pretty much discovered it was because to them an 'entertainment' district is another form of saying 'red light district'. We headed back into the subway, which was much classier, and wandered around under the Subway for awhile (I don't know if I have mentioned this, but Osaka basically has a ground level and an underground level of existance, with the subway walkways basically covering the entire city area), looking at all the shops, before settling on something to eat down there. We ended up having a cheap, but tasty & filling set menu for 950Y each, consisting of bottomless rice, salad, chicken & beef, vegies and miso soup.


17th September 2013

We woke up earlier today and caught the Shinkansen to Hiroshima. I like Hiroshima far more as a city than I liked Osaka. Osaka felt like the seedy underbelly of Japan.

We discovered upon arrival to Hiroshima that our hotel, Sheraton Hiroshima, was basically adjacent to the JR station we arrived at. We were daunted by this, wondering if trains would keep us up all night, but the hotel is quite well sound-proofed. The hotel is rather lavish for the modest $115 a night we spent on it - king size bed, people to carry your luggage, etc.

After arriving we decided to walk across into the heart of Hiroshima to squeeze in a look at the castle before closing time - and made it with 5 minutes to spare for last admissions.

Hugh in the Castle grounds - ruins of part of the grounds

The castle

Hirosima Castle

I made Hugh try on this outfight they had at the castle.

And then I tried on a Samurai outfit.

We have now headed back to the hotel to unwind with a bento box for dinner, and some sort of sexytimes for redheads sounding drink.

I just love the name. One of the weirdest names I have ever heard.

Dressed in my hotel pyjamas.

14th & 15th September, 2013

14th September 2013

Today we left our beautiful hotel in Suidobashi (I highly recommend both the suburb as a place to stay and Niwa as a hotel), Tokyo to continue on down to Osaka. We have done this trip with no planning whatsoever besides booking accommodation and had not really thought through pre-reserving our seats on the Shinkansen. The lovely gentleman at Suidobashi station happily booked us some seats on the 13:03 Shinkansen to Osaka from Tokyo station, which was entirely covered by our JR Rail Passes, including the seat reservation (a saving of about 14000Y).

We battled our way through Tokyo station and found our Shinkansen. I loved the Shinkansen travel: we need these in Aus! The train was sleek and fast, reaching speeds of up to 300km/hour. The seats were comfortable and had huge amounts of leg room - about twice, if not 3 times the amount of leg room on standard plane seats. We were able to store most of our baggage in the racks above and kept 1 large bag in front of us, which easily fitted due to the room. The chairs also reclined back ridiculous amounts allowing for easy sleep.

Once we arrived in Osaka we swapped to the local Midosuji line (tickets about 230Y, not covered by the JR Rail Pass) and walked from the stop to our hotel, where we got ridiculously lost. The informations clerk had told us to walk down the Subway to Kitahama Subway station and walk from there (You can walk quite a bit of Osaka underground in the Subway), but we couldn't get our bearings underground and went up the surface to ask some poor hapless Japanese lady for directions. She was amazing. I don't know if I have mentioned how much I love the Japanese people, but gee I wish Australians were more like them. They will do EVERYTHING in their power to help you. This beautiful lady, who didn't speak a bar of English, basically walked 15 minutes out of her way to lead us directly to our hotel, which she didn't even know where was and would stop and ask directions along the way, in appalling heat. When we arrived at the hotel we had her and another man whom we'd asked directions from basically lead us right in. 

I pretty much decided I will become 'Japanese' in my principles when I return home, although in Australia it is not as safe to help people out unfortunately. Japan feels much much safer than home.



15th September, 2013

Today almost didn't go as planned. Initially when we were looking at booking Japan, we had decided to be in Osaka for this date specifically, as we knew the Kishiwada Danjiri Matsuri was on, and wanted to experiance a Japanese festival.

I know I said I wouldn't talk Diabetes in this blog, and would save it for my other blog, but in this case it affected our day. Last night I went to bed with 2 failed set changes (and massive bruises from 1 to boot), and a change in insulin, after having sat at about 17 for 12 or so hours. Couldn't get my BGs down no matter how many corrections I did. Anyway, after the change of insulin they came down...and kept going down. I basically spent the night battling hypos. At one point my pump suspended itself and flashed a message on the screen to get help - it presumed I was unconscious.

So basically zero sleep for either of us, so we slept in until 10am (I had planned for us to be at the festival at 10am). After dragging ourselves still tired from bed, we discovered it was raining, so we went down to ask the hotel staff if they knew the festival was still on. The reply was: "Yes, in rain. But maybe typhoon or hurricane later, not so good". As you can imagine, we didn't feel too safe with that comment.

We decided to risk it anyway and continued on to the festival, arriving at just after 1pm. 

Oh my gosh! It was amazing. We have nothing like it in Australia. Scratch that, health and safety wouldn't allow it into Australia.

It was raining, there were crowds, umbrellas everywhere. The streets were lined with Japanese festival food (mmm Kara-Age chicken!!!), lanterns were hung (and thoughtfully sealed in rain-proof casings). The streets were closed off and throngs of people lined the sidewalks.

Every 5 minutes or so you could hear a loud banging of drums and slowly small figures dressed in Black shirts and white pants would start to trickle into the blocked off streets. Their numbers would grow as the drums came nearer, and you could see them pulling a large, thick rope behind them. The pullers looked exhausted, their white pants see through in the cold rain and sheer tiredness etched onto their faces. I think even their braided hair looked beat. Add to that fact that they were all children - both boys and girls - and I was amazed at their determination (The festival goes over 2 days and starts at 10am and finished late afternoon to night, so who know how long they had been at it for).

Hugh & I were positioned at a corner, and this is where all the action happened. After 20 or 30 meters of the pullers ran past you would see a float approach the corner, coming from an inside mall (Yep they pulled the float through an undercover arcade-style mall). The pullers stopped and readied themselves to heave on the rope. They would take off in a sprint, faces pained and round the corner. The float would hurtle along with them, rounding the corners and almost bowling into the street sides (I did hear somewhere shops keepers take out an insurance during the festival in case a float smashes into their shop.) Atop each float was some guys who must have had amazing balance, as they danced and jumped like crazy as the float sped around the corner.


Insane. I loved it & didn't want to leave. 

Some pullers. As they ran around, other children with paddles beat their bums in attempts to make them pull harder and faster.

One of the floats

The Lanterns 

Pullers getting a run up around the corner


The undercover arcade/mall filled with people. When the floats approached the area had to be cleared for the floats to pass through under here.



A float that just came around the corner

Sunday, September 15, 2013

13 September, 2013

The morning was rather non-existant, I think we slept in after my pump kept us awake all night beeping about lows (which I guess was good that it alerted me).

At about lunchtime we made up our mind to go to Ushiku Daibutsu, currently the 3rd largest statue in the world, and the largest statue of buddha. To get there was actually a bit difficult. We took a once every half hour JR Line (very unusual in Tokyo, most come every 5 or so minutes) out to Ushiku. No-one in Ushiku spoke any English and it took us a long time to figure out where to catch the bus from to get to the Daibutsu  (Stop 1, in case anyone reads this and needs to know). The bus itself only came once every hour and a half or so, so we had a 50 minute wait until it arrived. Our train of course was covered by our JR Rail Passes, but the bus to the Daibutsu was 660Y each way per person. An interesting thing that I noted on the bus was that the driver had barely anything to do with the fare. You take note when you get on the bus of the stop you get on at, and at the end you pay what price corresponds with the bus stop number. You feed it into a conveyor belt, which I don't think gives change, so we were glad we had the correct fare for both ways.

The bus journey took a good half an hour. You could see the Daibutsu from several kilometers away, it was the tallest thing around as Ushiku was a rather small town with no high rises.

The Daibutsu cost only 800Y for the full tour, which included going inside the statue and admittance to the gardens and mini zoo.

Hugh & I being Buddha's.


Inside the Daibutsu you take off your shoes and are ushered into a small room. All the lights are blacked out and a man speaks in Japanese. They do not have English translation at all for the tour but that didn't bother me, we just followed what everyone else did.

Inside the Daibutsu you see a room filled with little gold statues of Buddha's, about 3000 of them. I think you could pay money (probably a lot) to get your name inscirbed beneath one.

We caught the elevator up the 5th floor inside the statue, which I think was about 100m up (The whole thing stands at about 120m from ground to top, and about 100m from feet to head), and slowly worked our way down.

Thankfully this all took some time as the bus back, after dropping us off, didn't make another run for over 2 hours. We caught the last one of the day, which leaves the Daibutsu at 4.10pm, and you arrive at Ushiku station at just before 5pm.